Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 1,428 total · 15/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 22, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

This fun jug haul makes a good warmup for the harder lines in the cave, or a good project on it's own. Easy moves on good holds lead up through the first two bolts, where a tricky move is encountered. Manage this and it's all about hanging on too the anchors, there are only a few non jug holds on your way. Despite most of the holds being good the grade probably comes from fighting the pump and hanging on.

Location

At the right side of the cave. The last route before the cave ends. "Solstice" is the the left and "Scorcher" is to the right.

Protection

1 quickdraw, all other draws and chains are fixed.

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
This one's a 4 star route that gets downgraded because of several EVEN BETTER!! 5.12's (ie. Swept Away). Really fun must do pitch Nov 28, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
The glue-reinforced/glued-on right-hand sidepull between the first and second fixed chain draws has broken off and sits near the base of the route. Thankfully there's a good crimp in the vicinity and the difficulty hasn't changed much. Dec 8, 2014
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Glad that it's not too much harder (is it reachy?). Andre and Matt told me about that hold breaking. Good to see that some more NM glue has gone away!! Dec 8, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
The crimp is a full pad and really positive. The new move from the crimp is a tad more reachy because it's a downward pull instead of a side pull that allowed shorter climbers to get their hip into the wall to drive for the clipping jug by the second chain. Still a great route. Dec 9, 2014
Jerry432
odessa texas
 
Jerry432   odessa texas
 
Thanks for posting the hold blew. I was about to post until I read yours! I like ES even more now that the hold broke. I agree for shorter climbers the difficulty may be the reach. Apr 19, 2015
Doug Hearon
Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
Doug Hearon   Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
Just a heads up, the nut on the second fixed draw hanger needs to be tightened. It was only hanging on by a couple threads. I hand tightened it a little more but we didn’t have a wrench to get it nice and snug... Dec 11, 2018