To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Ice, 650 ft (197 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.2 from 30
FA: Dave Cass & Phil Koch (p2), John Bouchard solo harder 3rd pitch, Winter 1973-74
> VT Ice & Mixed
> Smugglers Notch…
> 10W - The Blind Fate…
The route can be done in 2-3 pitches, but you could do as many as 5 I would think.
There are 2 definite pitches of easy ice/snow that lead to the upper snow field. From here there are 3 distinct separate variations that could be taken. I suppose you could do each one and rap back to the snowfield and then do the next. The left is the hardest, right is the easiest.
When approaching from the North, you cannot see Hidden Gully until you have passed the top of the Notch and are heading down the South side. Look up across from Elephants Head and you will see the second snow field and two of the three finishing pitch options off of it.
Approach is up a slide path about 500 vert. feet to the beginning of the gully. The approach starts in a roadside pullout just a few hundred yards south of the stone hut.
Ice Screws. At second snow field (end of second pitch, on left) there are two, two bolt anchors. One is set up with rap rings. At the first snow field (end of first pitch) there are a number of trees on right some with rappel slings on them.