Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Whitney Huermann, Jeff Burton
Page Views: 772 total · 8/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Feb 22, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is an easier companion to Flakes of Wrath. This area stays shaded all day, so it is a good warm day option. There are two distinct cruxes, one at the base and one up high (tricky gear). It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery sequence at the start.

Start below a 4-bolt mixed line. The climb starts at good edges and moves up to an odd shaped right facing flake. The line follows additional flakes to the top with some great rests to place gear and contemplate the next series of moves. Fun route and a great warmup to Flakes.

Watch for expanding flakes and loose holds. Exiting right after the last bolt would be dangerous as it is full of large loose holds.

Location

20' left of Flakes of Wrath behind the Test Pilots buttress. Walk across the top to a pile of stacked boulders with SS cable for the rap. 60m rope mandatory for the rap.

Protection

Single rack, tri-cams and nuts are always handy. Make sure the rock is solid for gear. 4 bolts and a few runners. Belay at a pine tree left of the climb.

Photos