Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Whitney Huermann, Jeff Burton
Page Views: 691 total, 8/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Feb 22, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an easier companion to Flakes of Wrath. This area stays shaded all day, so it is a good warm day option. There are two distinct cruxes, one at the base and one up high (tricky gear). It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery sequence at the start.

Start below a 4-bolt mixed line. The climb starts at good edges and moves up to an odd shaped right facing flake. The line follows additional flakes to the top with some great rests to place gear and contemplate the next series of moves. Fun route and a great warmup to Flakes.

Watch for expanding flakes and loose holds. Exiting right after the last bolt would be dangerous as it is full of large loose holds.

Location

20' left of Flakes of Wrath behind the Test Pilots buttress. Walk across the top to a pile of stacked boulders with SS cable for the rap. 60m rope mandatory for the rap.

Protection

Single rack, tri-cams and nuts are always handy. Make sure the rock is solid for gear. 4 bolts and a few runners. Belay at a pine tree left of the climb.
can you guys tell me the name of the huge crack to the left of this route and the ratting? May 19, 2013
photocodo mcclung
Hendersonville, NC
photocodo mcclung   Hendersonville, NC
Fun route. A grey (00) TCU protects the tall right handed move just before the last bolt. Feb 17, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Very fun climbing on sometimes questionable rock. Worthwhile route overall. There is a pretty good hand sized cam in the middle section that seems like fairly solid rock. Jan 7, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The route gets a PG13 for the easy section between second and third bolt. Not many good options for gear since the rock is questionable. Feb 22, 2011