Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,636 total · 131/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Feb 21, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I've seen this called V1, but I thought it was a sandbag at that. This climbs the really cool wall topped by castle-like parapets. The crux is at the very top, so be solid, or use a rope.

Location

In the Entrance Area, on the castle wall.

Protection

Mind control, or a TR

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
One of the best highballs I've ever done. You keep hoping that a positive edge for your hands is going to appear, and it doesn't! Smeary footwork the whole way. Jan 16, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  V1+
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  V1+
Definitely not a V2, but there were several moves that felt near V1. Three different moves that all had slopey feet and hands, with the last one being the hardest. Jan 31, 2012
Bring your chalk bag... you will need it. Dicey topout. Feb 9, 2012
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Super rad and much harder at the top than appears from the ground. Aug 8, 2012
Paul K.
West Fargo, ND
  V2
Paul K.   West Fargo, ND
  V2
I personally thought the middle part was the hardest. You get some nice sidepulls except for the middle. but not much else besides some slopey crimps. Once you get the hand jam at the top you finally feel solid and relax a bit. If you do climb this remember you are on slab. I found myself holding tense lockoffs then I realized that could actually go hands free because it is slabby enough. Feb 17, 2015
Doug Foster
V2 PG13
Doug Foster  
V2 PG13
It's funny how much harder this is than Making Waves, a V2 highball over at Rocktown. Super fun. I found that the crux was in the middle, not the top like some people said. Oct 16, 2016
My friend who climbs V6/V7 fell at the top of this, ended up hurting his ankel and had to skip climbing the next 2 days... it is the only route I have ever seen him fall on under the grade of V5. After that noone else in our group attempted it. All the locals we talked to said they will not even attempt it without a rope.

Never made an attempt myself but based on all the routes my friend who fell on it has climbed there is no way it is a V1/V2. May 16, 2017
Daniel Woodward
Clearwater, FL
  V2-3 PG13
Daniel Woodward   Clearwater, FL
  V2-3 PG13
Just be warned,the day I was on this Id sent a v6 but plucked off the very top of storm the castle.. when you think v1, this isn't it except maybe at hp40. Even messing up my ankle after falling, cant wait for revenge on this... be solid on hand jamming for the send and downclimb, and get on this Jul 18, 2017