[Hide Comment] If you blow it right before the 2nd bolt, you can deck onto the big ledge. Answer is probably placing gear in the crack between 1st and 2nd bolts, and having your belayer on the big ledge below the 1st bolt instead of on the ground will reduce rope stretch in case of a fall. I believe the anchor bolts are at the bottom of a short slab at the top so you cannot reach the anchor from the top unless you downclimb or rappel to it. My friend led it and said the anchor bolts looked a little rusty so he backed up the anchor, but not sure what he backed it up to. Also said some of it was mossy. Oct 30, 2021

[Hide Comment] Gear is critical for this route. We placed gear between every bolt and to protect the moves to the 1st bolt. There is no dedicated anchor for this climb- clip the directional at the top and traverse right to the Melvin anchor. Nov 18, 2023