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Songs of Love

5.11c, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: FRA: Chuck Calef
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Old New Place

Description

Climb the short arete. It is basically a boulder problem variation start to either climb 20 or 21. Fun moves!

Location

The arete between the un-named 5.9 crack (climb 20) and Berserker.

Protection

top rope

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
[Hide Comment] Edited after going back: I'd climbed a line (on lead, but with basically no pro) that I thought might be this but was probably starting to the left and traversing over. I didn’t start on the blunt arete.

Old notes list a couple of climbs/variations on the cliff.
12/26-30/97 New Routes at the Old New Place, New New Place
First ascent teams including Theo Takeda, Luke Laeser, Carlo Torres, and Scott Fitzgibbon finished 4 new routes at the Old New and New New Places over the Christmas holiday. The first and best, "Momentum" *** 5.12a climbs the smooth, overhung face just right of "God Route" (on the far left side of the crag). On the other end of the cliff, "Half Nelson" ** 5.10d scales a short double overhang. And in the middle of all this, a variation up a smooth grey slab called "Jump Chump" * 5.11+.
Oct 7, 2015