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Love In the Ruins

5.11d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Jim Waugh (2/95)
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Euro Dog Valley > Hook Wall
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

A great sport route, much fun to be had. Starts in a chimney (it's easier then it 1st appears) and one side-clips the 1st bolt leaning out from the right. The climbing then goes directly above 1 (it's not necessary to go out right). The crux follows off 2 and features an extremely challenging clip to 3 (might have been at one time much easier and for this reason we took off a star); this section is the lowest angle part of the climb but is very bouldery. The upper part of the climb is amusing large holds which somewhat helps if you are tall. The last bolt intelligently directs the rope from not abrading against the face below. The anchor is on the right.

Location

The central part of the wall in the dihedral.

Protection

7 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Toby Wehler
Milwaukee, WI
[Hide Comment] This route looked really fun, but we ran out of time today to get on it. The arete looks sweet as well. Dec 15, 2014