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Routes in Dance Hall of the Dead

Brutal Planet T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Nipples and Busch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cryptic T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Expropigation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grateful Head S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lean Into It S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Servant of the Bones T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smiling Mortician, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed corner to dirty crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed thin hands through bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watusi Afterworld S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Pain & Mills
Page Views: 406 total · 5/month
Shared By: JFM on Feb 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a one-trick pony of a climb. Scramble up a series of unprotected ledges to the route's sole bolt on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a stemming crux. Simple climbing follows, reaching one cold-shut anchor (to the left of the small gully & dead tree).

Location

The next climb to the right from Grateful Head. The ledges are obvious under the singly-bolted dihedral (lots of nice orange lichen on it).

The top-out anchor on this one is... well, you can move left and get to the Grateful Head anchor pretty easily. Lots of rope drag otherwise.

Protection

1 bolt just in time for the crux. A 1-2.5" cam down low (before the ledges) and larger stoppers elsewhere. Currently there's a piece of knotted webbing jamming up what might be a prime placement just before the crux-bolt.

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