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Routes in Dance Hall of the Dead

Brutal Planet T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold Nipples and Busch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cryptic T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grateful Head S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lean Into It S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Servant of the Bones T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smiling Mortician, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed corner to dirty crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed thin hands through bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Watusi Afterworld S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Pon & Mills
Page Views: 183 total, 2/month
Shared By: JFM on Feb 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up a slab, over 2 lumps, and past a little pine tree. The crux is working out toward the edge of the south-face on moderately thin feet, going up, and over.

Hiro adds:
After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree

Location

This route is the first bolted route to the right of "Brutal Planet," the obvious crack toward the left side of the formation.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 pitons lead to a 2 bolt anchor. One piton is "hidden" behind the small pine tree (3rd clip) & is well-served if extended with a sling.

Photos

Andrew S.
Bouldurr
 
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
 
There's no way this thing is 10b or c/d. 5.9 seemed about right to me. Using the crack helps getting to the second pin on the small face after the little tree. The rest of the route is pulling a few bulges, but if you look around, you'll find what you need to keep it mellow. Jan 27, 2017
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
I'd give this route a 5.10b rating, my partner was suggesting 10c/d. The slabby portions are difficult if you aren't a skilled slab climber. I'm not sure what 10a slab is vs. 10d slab (vs 11a for that matter). So I'll just say that at multiple places there are minimal holds where you just have to step up, the angles are low enough at some of those spots to not make it really scary.

After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree.

Gillett book gives is 5.9+. So ok, perhaps it is the 5.9+ aka the most scary grade out there. Probably best not to hand this off to a new leader, especially if you are expecting Boulder Canyon grading. Jul 11, 2012