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Routes in Placche Zebrate

Via Trento T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
via 46th Parallel T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 770 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Feb 19, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Smooth slab interspersed with grassy pockets, Via Trento is a much better climbing route than would appear from a distance. The route milks solid slab features for 5 or 6 pitches.

Start: the original route climbed just left of the trough but it appears that this pitch has fallen into obscurity. Some really poor looking old bolts can be found here. Instead, climb up and into the trough, joining the first pitch of “46° Parallelo” and ending the pitch at the left side of the channel.

Cross over and out of trough, trending to the left, and climb up through a nifty, smooth slab to a belay stance above a small break. The next couple of pitches climb up through cruxy 5.8ish slab features and grassy pockets, angling just a bit to the left, then up through a shallow corner.

One last smooth slab leads up then crosses over to the right onto lower angle terrain with some gravel filled holes (take care especially with parties below). Finish on much lower angle ground at the long, slanted bench atop the Placche Zebrate.

The route is fairly easy to follow, as, it connects weaknesses and has a fair number of bolts, some spread out quite far but noticeable from below.

Location

On the far left (south) side of the Placche Zebrate, just slightly up from the base of the crag (near the bottom of the scree descent), locate a large smooth slab just above half way up the face. Left of this large slab is a lower angle trough with a number of trees and bushes in it. Just left of this grassy trough (the route “Via del 46° Parallelo”) is Via Trento.

Located to the right of “Gino Gianna”.

Route name may appear at the base of the route, but, may be hard to read/see.

Easy walk off on the climber’s trail to the south, over to the scree gully leading back to the base of the wall.

Take care to not knock off any loose rocks onto folks below.

Protection

A set of quickdraw (8 to 10), a smattering of medium to large nuts, a few cams, and a half dozen thin slings for threads help supplement the sometimes sparse fixed protection on this route.

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