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Routes in Lost Boys Wall

Speed Clip Pantie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Three Finger Louie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ken Mills 1989
Page Views: 224 total, 3/month
Shared By: brucy on Feb 18, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

A vertical face with some painful and possibly injurious monos. Extremely technical and subtle. Originally rated 10c- tho while it might well have started out that way (one never knows), it's now eroded up to it's present rating. Extremely beta dependent: the choreography is intricate.

Location

This route is just right of its neighbor- Three Finger Louie. Standard rap or lower.

Protection

4 bolts widely spaced. Fortunately this routes top anchors can be approached rather easily by following the base of the cliff as it rises east to gain the top and then walking back west to where a tree allows a 15' rappel to the two bolt anchor. One can then lower and hang long slings from the lead bolts to simulate additional protection to improve the climbing experience considerably.

Photos

Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10+
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10+
Liked this one. Thin holds to a couple of clipping jugs. Def not R rated, thought it was chill except for getting to the chains even though the climbing is easier up there. 10+ seems about right. Didn't try the arete to the left Dec 15, 2014
Tradiban
  5.10+ PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10+ PG13
Monos are nice finger stackers. Def not 5.11 and just a little run out after the last bolt. Good route, get on it. Feb 14, 2013