All Mixed Up
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Brian Shelton and Chris Jackson|
|Page Views:||486 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Manitou on Feb 16, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis climb is located more or less above the top-rope wall, to the south of the Chief and Squaw Wall.
Go past two bolts up a steep face (listed as 5.9, but this felt considerably harder, easily 5.10+ for short people), continue into an easy crack system, this is followed by another bolt and tricky face climbing into a right-facing dihedral to the anchors.
This thing is straight out of The Garden in terms of style. It is quite scary getting to the first bolt; 40 feet from the belay ledge, culminating in a tricky mantle onto a crumbling, hollow shelf before the first bolt can be clipped. A fall here would be brutal, tumbling all the way back to or past the belay ledge, hence the R rating. The crack system is covered in rat shit. The last moves to the anchor are tricky as well, and not all that easy to protect.
All in all, this is a fun climb; it is out of character for the canyon. It has good exposure. It doesn't see much traffic.