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Routes in Squaw Wall

All Mixed Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Foreign Squaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pull Down, Not Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Chris Jackson
Page Views: 486 total, 6/month
Shared By: Patrick Manitou on Feb 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This climb is located more or less above the top-rope wall, to the south of the Chief and Squaw Wall.

Go past two bolts up a steep face (listed as 5.9, but this felt considerably harder, easily 5.10+ for short people), continue into an easy crack system, this is followed by another bolt and tricky face climbing into a right-facing dihedral to the anchors.

This thing is straight out of The Garden in terms of style. It is quite scary getting to the first bolt; 40 feet from the belay ledge, culminating in a tricky mantle onto a crumbling, hollow shelf before the first bolt can be clipped. A fall here would be brutal, tumbling all the way back to or past the belay ledge, hence the R rating. The crack system is covered in rat shit. The last moves to the anchor are tricky as well, and not all that easy to protect.

All in all, this is a fun climb; it is out of character for the canyon. It has good exposure. It doesn't see much traffic.

Location

This climb lies on the Chief, south of the main Squaw Wall.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 1/2" to 3" pro.

Photos

Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
 
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
 
I'm going back and forth on the R rating. If the first bolt could be clipped without having to commit to the crumbling shelf, it wouldn't even warrant PG-13. On the flip side, I broke two large parts of that shelf off before I went for it; and all it'd take is a broken hold here to send you tumbling a long, long way. Feb 16, 2011