Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Bernard Gillett and Justin Dubois, 2011|
|Page Views:||808 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Bernard Gillett on Feb 15, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver. Another option begins with The Brown Palace but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).
2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and liebacks (crux); clipping the final bolt could be exciting during an onsight. Belay at a sloping stance with two bolts. These bolts are part of the rappel route for Proud Mary. This is a fine pitch.
3. 95 feet, 5.11c, 10 bolts. Head up and right to reach a short crack, and then step left at its end to a vertical headwall with a seam. Unlock crux moves up the seam, and then bearhug to the 3rd pitch belay anchor on The Brown Palace.
Rappel the route (95', 75', 75') or continue for 3 more pitches on The Brown Palace (5.10+, 5.10, 5.10d).
I believe one could safely lead the upper half of the third pitch from the 2nd belay on The Brown Palace (I've top roped it that way). Bring a #0.75 Camalot for the short crack for this option, and a couple of long slings.