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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett and Justin Dubois, 2011
Page Views: 248 total, 3/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Feb 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Lie Detector is a 3-pitch route (with an option to go to the top) that lies between Proud Mary and Fool Me Twice.

1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver. Another option begins with The Brown Palace but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).

2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and liebacks (crux); clipping the final bolt could be exciting during an onsight. Belay at a sloping stance with two bolts. These bolts are part of the rappel route for Proud Mary. This is a fine pitch.

3. 95 feet, 5.11c, 10 bolts. Head up and right to reach a short crack, and then step left at its end to a vertical headwall with a seam. Unlock crux moves up the seam, and then bearhug to the 3rd pitch belay anchor on The Brown Palace.

Rappel the route (95', 75', 75') or continue for 3 more pitches on The Brown Palace (5.10+, 5.10, 5.10d).

I believe one could safely lead the upper half of the third pitch from the 2nd belay on The Brown Palace (I've top roped it that way). Bring a #0.75 Camalot for the short crack for this option, and a couple of long slings.

Location

Lie Detector climbs through two headwalls left of Fool Me Twice but right of Proud Mary. It begins with Deceiver, which is near the left edge of the main roadside face.

Protection

Bring 12 quick draws and a couple locking biners.

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