Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tristan Higbee, Thomas Gappmayer 2/15/11|
|Page Views:||997 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Higbee on Feb 15, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Both climbers should have experience building natural anchors, and both climbers should be solid and confident at the grade.
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Western Front. We cut straight up and left after the traverse (and before the trough/scoop heading to WF pitch 1 anchors), heading directly to the base of the second pitch dihedral. It was loose and didnt protect well. A better option might be to do the complete first pitch of WF and then move the belay 20 feet to the left. 5.7, 100
Pitch 2: Climb up the long dihedral, using good incut holds on the right side for most of its length. The rock quality varies widely, from pretty dang good to chossy. At the top, the crack curves to the right and ends under a roof. The moves over the roof are the exposed and the crux, but the rock is pretty good. Sling a horn for the belay, using a bolted anchor 15 to the right as a backup. Best pitch on the route. Solid 5.8 PG-13/R, 140
Pitch 3: The choose your own adventure pitch. We went straight up, to the right of a right-facing flake and left of a large block. (You could also go to the left in a brushy corner system or to the right on lower angled terrain). Moves on vertical rock above a grassy ledge are the crux. Top out on a large grassy ledge, and walk back 30 to a belay on slung horns and a couple cam placements (#2 and #3 Camalot). Not as sustained as pitch 2. 5.8 R, 100
Pitch 4: A short, easy pitch. Climb directly above the belay up to a little roof, then move around the roof to the right to a short chimney section. More easy climbing leads to the top of the quartzite above Bad Bananas. 5.6 R, 60
Descent: Head north for a bit and then scramble down to the west. You should be able to see clearly the trail the leads off the top from Bad Bananas. Head for the trail, and then follow it down and west, above Training Camp. This will spit you out at the west end of the Training Camp. From there, either follow the trail back to the parking lot, or traverse back east to the base of the route to retrieve packs.