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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When You’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tristan Higbee, Thomas Gappmayer 2/15/11
Page Views: 858 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Feb 15, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

An adventure route in the same vein as other routes in the canyon like Jungle Rot Slot, Logical Fallacy, or Air China Flight 924. No bolts or pitons were taken or placed on the route.

Both climbers should have experience building natural anchors, and both climbers should be solid and confident at the grade.

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Western Front. We cut straight up and left after the traverse (and before the trough/scoop heading to WF pitch 1 anchors), heading directly to the base of the second pitch dihedral. It was loose and didn’t protect well. A better option might be to do the complete first pitch of WF and then move the belay 20 feet to the left. 5.7, 100’

Pitch 2: Climb up the long dihedral, using good incut holds on the right side for most of its length. The rock quality varies widely, from pretty dang good to chossy. At the top, the crack curves to the right and ends under a roof. The moves over the roof are the exposed and the crux, but the rock is pretty good. Sling a horn for the belay, using a bolted anchor 15’ to the right as a backup. Best pitch on the route. Solid 5.8 PG-13/R, 140’

Pitch 3: The choose your own adventure pitch. We went straight up, to the right of a right-facing flake and left of a large block. (You could also go to the left in a brushy corner system or to the right on lower angled terrain). Moves on vertical rock above a grassy ledge are the crux. Top out on a large grassy ledge, and walk back 30’ to a belay on slung horns and a couple cam placements (#2 and #3 Camalot). Not as sustained as pitch 2. 5.8 R, 100’

Pitch 4: A short, easy pitch. Climb directly above the belay up to a little roof, then move around the roof to the right to a short chimney section. More easy climbing leads to the top of the quartzite above Bad Bananas. 5.6 R, 60’

Descent: Head north for a bit and then scramble down to the west. You should be able to see clearly the trail the leads off the top from Bad Bananas. Head for the trail, and then follow it down and west, above Training Camp. This will spit you out at the west end of the Training Camp. From there, either follow the trail back to the parking lot, or traverse back east to the base of the route to retrieve packs.

Location

Climbs the bolted first pitch of Western Front on the far west side of Bad Bananas, then heads left and up into a dihedral system. The climb ends above where the other Bad Bananas routes end (see pics).

Protection

1 set of small cams to .5 Camalot. 2 each .75 Camalot to #4 (We had a #4 Friend and old #4 Camalot). 3 .75s might have been nice. 1 set of nuts. Lots of slings. Quickdraws for pitch 1 if you don’t use the slings.
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
Obviously a lot of people haven't done this route. There were still a couple of holds that broke as I went along which added a level of intensity to a relatively easy climb. Pitch 2 was pretty fun, but I don't think it's worth the trip. Aug 16, 2011
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
"Early Retirement" for two reasons: 1) This was my first climb in 4 months, and my friends thought I'd retired from climbing. Not true. 2) This route might force you into early retirement if you're not careful.

Pitch 2 is the only one that warrants 2 stars. All the others are ok.

Not a great route by any means, but fun if you're looking for an obscure adventure in the canyon. Also neat because it climbs higher than the other Bad Bananas routes.

I haven’t climbed Jungle Rot Slot yet, but the route wasn’t as hard or serious as Logical Fallacy, and as or more serious (though not as sustained) than Air China Flight 924.

There's a TR and more pics on my blog here. Feb 15, 2011