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Routes in Elephant Dome

B Cubed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crater Genetics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Diagonemesis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elephant's Trunk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephantiasis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave Deschamps, Joe Bernfield, and many others, 1989
Page Views: 1,341 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aleix on Feb 14, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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There is no public access road provided by the BLM to the Coyote Mountains Wilderness Area. Details
Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED! Details

Description

If you have bailed from other mentally and physically challenging routes in Arizona such as Sensory Desuetude or Coming to Grips, you may actually be able to finish this one.
A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.

A good description of every pitch can be found here:
http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page156.html

Variation: In pitch 5, after the bomb-bay offwidth on "ultra-polished" holds (not as bad as it sounds) and before the chimney with death blocks, there is a 1 bold, I mean 1 bolt variation where you clip a bolt at the base and to the left of the chimney and climb on the outside of it (by Jim Scott and Virgil Davis).
Almost all the pitches are full rope-lengths.

The wall is mostly south facing, but the upper headwall (from top of P3) goes into the shade around 2 or 3pm. Plan accordingly depending on temperatures. It can be hot and sweaty in the sun or quite cold in the shade.

Location

Starts just Left of Elephantiasis, right under the left huge block at the end of the 1st pitch. The first bolt (50 feet up) can be seen from the ground.

Protection

Double rack up to .75 or #1, then one #2 and one #3. Stoppers. 14 or so draws, half of them extendables. We didn't use any RPs but aliens are very useful.

Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
 
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
 
An adventure that will probably never be repeated by me! Third time's a charm, as they say. Took 3 attempts to get all the way up the thing. This was all in the 90s; I hear there's some new/better pro & variations now. We broke holds, took a 20 foot fall (a no-no in Mendoza), and did the slip & slide thing on bird shit. Been there--done that! A burly, headsy adventure, for sure! Dec 31, 2016