Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Caunt, Charlie Fowler, Troy Johnson, Kurt Smith (1987)
Page Views: 1,022 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 14, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a great little route under the Negative Pinnacle. You don't find many pitches of 5.10 face climbing on El Cap. The perfect series of positive edges and small shelves make the climbing improbably easy (especially considering that all the other routes in the vicinity range from 5.11+ to hard aid).

I don't usually use the "pg-13" grade, but it seems to perfectly describe this route. The bolts will keep you off the deck and the hardest sections are never far out, but this would be quite scary for any leader whose limit is 5.10b. Make sure you know how to mantle small foot-ledges, as the clipping stance for every bolt is guarded by a don't-blow-it-now mantle.

Location

This is located on the SE Face of El Cap. From the Nose, follow the base to the right. Just past the Sickle Ledge raps, there is a tall recess in the wall. This is the Negative Pinnacle. Party Mix begins at the right end of this recess and angles up and left past 3 bolts.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

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Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I'm not sure why this doesn't have more stars, but it is a fantastically good line on less-than-vertical rock with thin edging, hand-foot matching, and mantling up perfect granite features. The cruxes are certainly don't blow it, but if you're controlled you won't have a problem. May 11, 2015