Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.4 from 36
FA: Ray Dobkin and Stan Hayes, 1980
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
The first two pitches of Bombs Away are unremarkable, but the third pitch is one of three gems capping the Middle Earth
P1: Begin just right of Middle Earth
at blocks below a tree. Wander up the face, pass a short overhang, then up a steeper face to the Middle Earth
. Starting out, it may feel contrived to avoid Middle Earth, but the climbing later in the pitch is worthwhile. 5.6, 100 ft.
P2: Climb easy rock to the GT ledge. The Williams guide describes an independent line, but by now the only reasonably clean line is to run up P2 of Middle Earth
to the big ledge. 5.4, 100 ft.
P3: There are three right-facing corners above. The middle corner, directly above a tree with roots that seem to be levering out some slabs of rock (this used to be the rappel tree), is Bombs Away. Gain the face by stepping right to a shallow right-facing corner, then traverse left to just below the major overhanging corner. Up you go, with your last pro at your feet -- I promise the jugs above are huge. Then follow the cracks and horizontals to the very enjoyable coda on tight white rock. 5.8, 80 ft.
Rappel from bolted stations; 3x60m to the ground.