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Radagast

5.6, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 58 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth

Description

Intial tricky move off the deck ( direct 5.9 ) that really makes the route worth doing, with interesting climbing to the anchors.

Combine with Gandalf for great intro to Mission gorge climbing with both face and crack.

Location

Walk right prior to reaching Shadowfax. There are two formations under Shelobs Lair, Both Gandalf and Radagast are prominent on the rightmost.

Protection

Mixed lead, 2 bolts. 2 Bolt anchor. Walk-off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The opening move to get this ledge, is probably a little harder for those shorter type folks.
[Hide Photo] The opening move to get this ledge, is probably a little harder for those shorter type folks.
Radagast, with gandalf and rock wrestling to the left.<br> <br> - taken from Art Messier Topo
[Hide Photo] Radagast, with gandalf and rock wrestling to the left. - taken from Art Messier Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Good beginner lead. To keep the start at 5.6, move in from the right. Aug 31, 2011
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Direct start is challenging and ups the ante to 5.9 (one move off the ground). Mar 31, 2013
steverett
Boston, MA
5.8+
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the route/variation immediately left is? We started up the dihedral, then threw out left towards a bolt. Felt like 10a. Jun 29, 2016
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The face climbing on the upper portion is really fun. It's really easy, but it's just really good movement to gain the top.

I agree that the direct opening move is probably 5.8. Pretty committing off the deck, especially if you are going for the lead. Oct 23, 2016
costco hotdog
St. George
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Weird beginning, but the face climbing up higher is pretty fun. Jan 3, 2021
Bryan K
San Diego CA, USA
 
[Hide Comment] The first move off the deck is much easier if you have really thin fingers and the the air is super dry because then you can kind of lay back on it and smear instead of mantle. Climbing after that move is probably 5.6 but still really fun. It’s a great climb to get new people used to outdoor stuff / anchors / rappel etc, because of the walk off.

I think it’s wise to protect the belayers position if you have a piece of pro, but I’ve done it plenty of times without. The rock at the belay spot is just kind of sloped and slick.

Hanger to climbers right is a little spinny but It still felt super bomber when I was up there, 100% would whip. No rust, bolt is tight, but it did start spinning some time between august 2021 and march 2022. Just a heads up for experienced people to keep an eye on it since a lot of new climbers do this route. Mar 25, 2022