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Sir Mixed A Lot

5.10a/b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 19 votes
FA: Mehall
Colorado > Gunnison > Hartman Rocks > Beginner's Slab

Description

On Beginner Slab's backside, start up an obvious, nice, layback crack that turns to hands. Then it goes up the face past two bolts, to the anchor. Keith Brett gets credit for the clever name.

Location

Look for the big flake crack for the start on the backside of the Beginner's Slabs, aka the Beginner's Backside.

Protection

A few cams are necessary to protect the crack climbing section, which is about 20 feet.

Name change history

This route's name was changed by its FA from Baby's Got Crack to Sir Mixed A Lot. It was meant to be a pun for the crack climbing featured.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A) Unnamed Gully/Chimney, 5.6, trad. <br> B) Sir Mixed A Lot, 5.10d, mixed. <br> C) Back Where It All Begins, 5.7, trad.
[Hide Photo] A) Unnamed Gully/Chimney, 5.6, trad. B) Sir Mixed A Lot, 5.10d, mixed. C) Back Where It All Begins, 5.7, trad.
SMAL starts in the R side of the cookie-shaped flake (5.10a), good gear. Then it goes up to bolts (5.10d face). It's on the L side of this photo, and left of BWIAB! the leaning crack in the center that runs from the bottom of the crag to the top.
[Hide Photo] SMAL starts in the R side of the cookie-shaped flake (5.10a), good gear. Then it goes up to bolts (5.10d face). It's on the L side of this photo, and left of BWIAB! the leaning crack in the center…
Pulling some layback moves on the large flake of "Sir Mixed A Lot".
[Hide Photo] Pulling some layback moves on the large flake of "Sir Mixed A Lot".
Tim Stypolkowski on Sir Mixed A Lot.
[Hide Photo] Tim Stypolkowski on Sir Mixed A Lot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] There is a climb just a few feet to the left with a fun bouldery start. Climb past two bolts and join the top of Baby's Got Crack. Anyone know what this climb is? It's super fun! Nov 4, 2016
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] If you follow the bolts at the top, this is definitely 5.10d. It was mega-crimpy. Not 5.9 as the first commentor says. It appears the bolts weren't there when he/she commented though. Either way, super fun route! Toproped this but should have lead. The protection and bolts seem really good. May 13, 2019
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] In response to Ryan, the bolts were there. No point in debating ratings, but I believe the positive face climbing at the top is straightforward 5.9. May 20, 2019
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Also, the right anchor bolt at the top is loose! I must have botched the sequence then on the 5.9- moves :) Made it a 5.10d. May 23, 2019
Luke Mehall
Durango, CO
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Glad people are climbing this and enjoying it. Bring a wrench, and tighten up that anchor bolt. Let me know if it's sketchy, and I'll replace it next time I'm in town. May 23, 2019
Pat Hansen
Berkeley, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The right anchor bolt is still loose. I didn't have anything to tighten it with.

After getting up on the pedestal, the layback moves rely on a flake that feels like a potato chip, it felt a little sketchy. It's protectable by sticking a small cam up high from the pedestal, but it still feels insecure.

As far as the bolted section up high, I found the slab moves exciting but delicate. I'd say 9+ or 10a. Either way, super well-protected. Jun 13, 2020