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Routes in Genesis Area

Type: Ice, 115 ft
FA: Brian Leo and Pat Callis. October 31, 1971
Page Views: 2,388 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ben Redinius on Feb 8, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

G2 is a relatively wide flow and offers a variety of lines. However, the most common follows the easier central groove up the first step to a ledge feature. Other lines can be more on the order of WI4. There is a two-bolt anchor to the far right above this first step, 90 feet up and directly above a bush. The anchor is somewhat difficult to find and access. Yet, it is useful if climbing with a larger party and a top-rope setup is desirable. If continuing on the standard route, climb up several bulges to reach the final steep step. Here, you have a few options. There is a possible belay cave immediately on the right side of the final steep flow. One can also escape right with a much easier low-angled finish. The standard route tackles the steep bulge(WI4-) and ends at a belay tree to the left. One can rappel the route with two ropes (or one rope with a v-thread) or rap climbers left with one rope and walk down slopes to the base.

Location

G2 is directly up the drainage from G1, and is therefore easily approached by climbing G1. One can then hike up from the anchor to connect with the trail. G1 can also be bypassed by hiking around to the right and then following the trail up and left across the top of the cliff band and up to G2 (~10 minutes).

Protection

Ice screws
Tree anchors, or
TR bolts at 90' on right (bring slings)

Photos

Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  WI3
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  WI3
Don't get too intimidated by the final pillar... the right hand side is lower angle. Jan 29, 2016
Seth Kane
Bozeman, Montana
 
Seth Kane   Bozeman, Montana
 
if you swing left you can rappel from the tree with a 60m later in the season when there's more snow. For sure tie stopper knots and bring your v threader if you aren't sure you'll make it. May 19, 2015
Ben Redinius
Bozeman, MT
 
Ben Redinius   Bozeman, MT
 
For rappel or top rope- A single 70 meter rope just barely makes it from the tree anchor at the top. Be sure to tie stopper knots just in case. Feb 11, 2013