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Routes in Tilted Pillars

Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chapstick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Preying Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Professor Pogue's Precarious Pinnacle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ten Minutes of warmth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Guys and Heather T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 263 total, 3/month
Shared By: Morrismc on Feb 5, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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14 Opinions

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Description

guidebook: "Climb hand crack in a rich facing corner moving left onto a ledge. Next follow a thin crack past a bulge. After the bulge, crack widens and eases as your ascend."

A VERY fun beginner trad route. I found the beginning better if done as a set of stemming moves. And then moving into the crack.

There is a little bit of loose rock on the route so use caution.

Location

Just above the trampled bush at the base of the tiled pillars

Protection

I found placements for doubles in bd 1s, 2s and down through the sizes. So a full rack with doubles (only carrying 2's or smaller should do you fine). I brought nuts didn't end up finding placements for them.

Also due to the cliff at the base of the climb, never a bad idea to throw some pro and protect your belayer.

Photos

Lan Dogan
Seattle, WA
Lan Dogan   Seattle, WA
Anchors are tucked back and shared with chapstick. Recommend longer slings to help minimize rope drag if TR. Apr 6, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.7+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.7+
This route does cut left about half way up. I would not recommend this to beginning leaders.But if they place plenty of gear, should be ok. Feb 22, 2014
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.7+
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.7+
Just a warning, route-finding is a little tricky on this part of the wall as the columns lean, and I'm often unsure whether I should keep following a seam or bail left as the leaning gets more severe.

I bailed left on this after perhaps 20 feet, and what followed definitely didn't feel like 5.7, although it was protectable. Maybe I was being a wuss, but I might have also been off-route. Take a good look at the topos before going up over here! May 9, 2011