Another Notch in My Lipstick Case
Avg: 1.9 from 14 votes
Routes in Tilted Pillars
|Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Chapstick T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Preying Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Professor Pogue's Precarious Pinnacle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ten Minutes of warmth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Three Guys and Heather T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||263 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Morrismc on Feb 5, 2011|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Descriptionguidebook: "Climb hand crack in a rich facing corner moving left onto a ledge. Next follow a thin crack past a bulge. After the bulge, crack widens and eases as your ascend."
A VERY fun beginner trad route. I found the beginning better if done as a set of stemming moves. And then moving into the crack.
There is a little bit of loose rock on the route so use caution.
ProtectionI found placements for doubles in bd 1s, 2s and down through the sizes. So a full rack with doubles (only carrying 2's or smaller should do you fine). I brought nuts didn't end up finding placements for them.
Also due to the cliff at the base of the climb, never a bad idea to throw some pro and protect your belayer.