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V6, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Texas > Hueco Tanks > E Mountain > Maiden Gully
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Great diversity on a boulder problem. Great problem but can be painful, tape might help for the start.

Start out with a steep hands to cups crack. Then motor across the horizontal roof with some long reaches on pretty good holds. Finally fight through the bulge at the top on positive crimps.

Each section might be about V4 but by the time you get to the end you are spent.


Hard to describe the location in words, but essentially right in the middle of the climbing and on the underside of a boulder. You can't miss the starting crack when you see it.


Pad and spotter

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C rownjun
[Hide Comment] "The climb that has it all...The quintessential Hueco Tanks climb." - John Sherman, 1995. However, he says "12 feet of hand jams", implying a really low start, probably from almost a lay-down position. Wilder just says "sit start", which inclines one to start higher up the crack where you can still jam your hands from a sit. Though Sherman's way may be "full value", I think the higher, more obvious position is more natural, but of course, easier. Still V6? Idk. Jun 23, 2019