Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Gary Valle and Phil Warrender 1979
Page Views: 2,441 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kristian Solem on Feb 4, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details


As the name says, this route climbs the prow of the Cobra. The 5.9 bits are well protected and some easier sections are runout. 7 or 8 pitches lead to 4th class climbing to the top out. The route goes between the left and right facing arches visible from the base. Some of the belays have one bolt, some two, and one is a fixed pin.

This is a fantastic climb!

Rappel the north face from some fixed pins to an old bolted anchor and then to the ground. Two 60 meter ropes just reach. A bolt kit might be a good thing to have. (Secor's third edition says one 60M rope will reach. THIS IS WRONG. I came up short with two 50M ropes. One 70 will not reach.

The route goes between the arches seen above.

I was using two 50M cords and came up 15 ft short of a hanging belay for the second rap. I chained together all my runners and draws and some gear to batman down to the anchor. Scary!


The west buttress of The Cobra, Gorge of Despair.


Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Two 60 M ropes needed to get off. I would bring a light bolt kit in case the descent anchors need help.