Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Gary Valle and Phil Warrender 1979
Page Views: 3,248 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kristian Solem on Feb 4, 2011
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details


As the name says, this route climbs the prow of the Cobra. The 5.9 bits are well protected and some easier sections are runout. 7 or 8 pitches lead to 4th class climbing to the top out. The route goes between the left and right facing arches visible from the base. Some of the belays have one bolt, some two, and one is a fixed pin.

This is a fantastic climb! If you do one moderate in the GOD this is the one.


50 feet down the ridge from the summit cairn, find a single fixed piton on the north side. From here a short downclimb leads to a ledge on your right. Find the large chock-stone with old webbing around it. A series of raps with two 60M ropes get you down. Rumor has it that it can be done with a 70, with sections of exposed down-climbing. Bring plenty of webbing, and perhaps a few leaver ‘biners for the raps. This is not someplace you want to cheap out and get your ropes jammed.


The west buttress of The Cobra, Gorge of Despair.


Single set of nuts and cams to 3". Two 60 M ropes needed to get off. I would bring a light bolt kit in case the descent anchors need help.