Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: See Guidbook
Page Views: 3,695 total · 38/month
Shared By: Eric Schnepel on Feb 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

124 Opinions

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Climb to a high first bolt, then follow jugs over a few bulges to the anchor.


Sport. The first bolt is very high (25ish feet). The runout to the first bolt can be protected with a half inch cam. However, these moves are fairly easy and secure.


Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
Definitely wished I had some gear in once I got about 4 feet under the first bolt, but the climbing to the bolt was easy and the rest was super fun. Aug 3, 2011
This route and immediate area handle rain well. Rock stays pretty dry in most conditions. Sep 18, 2011
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Basically steep 5.9 climbing with a couple soft 5.10a moves tossed in. Really fun route!
If you've done the normal 5.10a sequence(around a bit to the left of the 2nd bolt) consider trying to go slightly right and straight up past the 2nd bolt. Powerful and super fun, the variation runs about 5.10d. Sep 30, 2014
Actually....when we put that route up, we never even considered going left. We just kept going up and slightly right of the bolt. It was not until a while later that I saw someone stepping left. I thought....you are missing one of the best moves on the route. Up and right I still give 10.a. Apr 23, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Haha that explains the somewhat difficult clip if you are following the 10a version. As far as going straight up, I personally felt the move was about as hard as Rolling Thunder (10d). Apr 23, 2015
Neither my partner nor myself felt that 1/2 inch cam (or other pro) would hold a fall in shallow flared cracks before 1st bolt. We didn't see any other options for protection.

Have climbed this route several times, and I do agree climbing to first bolt is fairly easy.

Just trying to say, climber beware. Jun 17, 2015
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
That first clip is so nerve-wracking when you decide to go for it. Dec 13, 2015
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I used a blue TCU below the first bolt, near that flared crack. I felt it was a good placement, though not very deep.

Really fun climb. Jun 6, 2016
Was yesterday and there is a Robin's nest on the route. Route setters are requesting that people don't climb. Jul 20, 2016
I have found lots of slammer gear before the first bolt. Off to the right and right in the middle. Plus the huge obvious flake down and right of the first bolt. Aug 10, 2016
Although the climbing is easy that first bolt is scary high in my opinion. I climbed kamikaze first and clipped the first bolt on toprope from that anchor. Mar 13, 2018
Jason George
Portland, OR
Jason George   Portland, OR
Added some steel carabiners at the anchor so people can lower directly on them. Please use your own to TR. Jul 11, 2018