Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson?
Page Views: 1,699 total · 18/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Jan 31, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the south face of a small tower. It has fun laybacks to a bolt protected mantle to gain the top. The second should be aware of the pendulum if they were to fall at the mantle.

Location

The tower is noticable as you drive to the parking spot. From where you park walk 1 mile up the trail/road and it will be seen along the eastern cliff band.

Protection

aliens, TCUs, 1 and 2 camalots. Anchor is on the east edge and may need new webbing.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Was pleasantly surprised with the quality of this little tower, it's one of the best single-pitch towers I've done, and at a modest grade! Great fingers/tips locks and hands, stemming/laybacking, a bouldery finish...the rock was the best I've seen around Bluff, the climbing engaging for the grade, the summit nice...the only downside was that the rappel anchor (positioned to rap off the overhanging east side for a nice free-hanging ride) runs the ropes over a soft, low-angle bulge which is very grooved out from the few previous pulls. If I was headed back up it, I'd strongly consider bringing a kit to move the anchor. Mar 21, 2014
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Went back and added a new anchor with 1/2" stainless bolts and chains that is situated directly back (north) of the topout for the route. It protects the final mantel for the 2nd much better and provides a clean rap route that doesn't chomp up the sandstone. I would have liked to have it right above the climb for toproping purposes, but didn't place it there due to rock quality and the fact that initiating the rappel from the summit would be awkward (flat top with vertical face below).

We cut the webbing off of the old anchor, but left the bolts. If you really must do a free-hanging rappel or get a photo of such (it's a good pic I admit), please fix the rope and get your kicks, and then have the last person on top flip the rope around toward the route (above the steep face and not over the heavily grooved bulge), pull it up and rap off the new anchor. Let's all do what we can to minimize further damage to this cool tower.

Anchor hardware was mostly donated by the ASCA--a big thanks to them! Dec 2, 2014
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
Nice job! I haven't been out there in years and I miss it. Dec 2, 2014