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Stolen Knee
5.11a,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: SM and JU, Oct 2010
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> 191 South
> Bluff
> Cottonwood Wash
> Sandwalker Buttress
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Definitely a fun route starting with fingers and going all the way to a #6 camalot. The start is a 5.10 layback that leads to hands. It then goes to 5.11 OW that takes some technique and strength.
Location
The route is located next to a small tower one mile from the parking area on the east wall. The tower has a route called The Bant a 5.9+. From the Bant you should be able to see Stolen Knee on the east wall.
Protection
I used doubles from .5-4 camalot, and a 5 and 6 camalot. I set bolts with help from Carson B. in march 2011. The original rap was 100 ft. north off of some sad trees.
[Hide Photo] Fighting through the OW bulge
[Hide Photo] The east face of the tower with the route The Bant is on the right. Stolen Knee is the corner on the wall right-center of the photo. The original rap station comes off the trees left of the above…