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Routes in Tofana di Rozes

Da Pazzo vecchio Pazzo T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete” T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spigalo Sam T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Spigolo Sam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Via Classica (South Face) (Dimai/Eötvös Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft, 18 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ettore Constantini, Luigi Ghedina, 1946
Page Views: 1,753 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Jan 30, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Description general: This route climbs the left side of the second pillar on the South face of Tofana, eventually traversing left to the arete itself. The first half of the route is fairly consistent in difficulty – not too easy, not too hard but stunningly beautiful alpine Dolomite climbing. It is a bit longer and harder than the Pillar I arete and much easier and shorter (time wise) than the nearby Pilastro. Most of the rock is excellent, though higher up when the climbing is easier there is some loose rock. The route is extremely popular and you will likely wait at belays and likely have Europeans climb right past you clipping your gear if they are faster climbers than you (common practice and standard ethics in the area so don’t get upset).

Pitch description:

Pitch 1 – 40 m IV: Climb the crack moving left to a stance below a corner
Pitch 2 – 40 m IV: Climb the next dihedral
Pitch 3 – 20 m IV: Climb up to a thread belay
Pitch 4 – 35 m IV-: Traverse horizontally right to a stance below a white corner.
Pitch 5 – 45 m V-: Climb up the corner a short distance the go diagonally left up a slab
Pitch 6 – 45 m IV: Climb a shallow corner towards yellow roofs.
Pitch 7 – 30 m V+: Climb directly up to the roofs, traverse right the when possible climb over the roofs and up to a ledge under the higher roof
Pitch 8 – 45 m VI-: Traverse 15 meters left, climb a crack for 10 meters and move left around the arete to reach the start of a dihedral
Pitch 9-11 – 35 m V: Climb the groove on the left side of the arete for a few pitches
Pitch 12 – 40 m V: Zigzap right. Left, right over slabs and bulges
Pitch 13 – 35 m IV-: Up the gully to a bulge.
Pitch 14 – 50 m V+: Over the left side of the bulge into a chimney and up the left side of the gully
Pitch 15-18 – 120 m III: Traverse left and follow a crack then easy rock to a scree gully and up this to the col

Location

Approach – At the 113.8 KM mark on the Falzarego pass road there is a road that branches off towards the mountain. Drive up this road to the car park near the Rifugio Dibona. Walk up the wide path towards Rifugio Cantore/Giussani and branch off left below the South face. Start climbing to the right of the big gully that is at the left side of the second buttress. Scramble up to the right side of a narrow ledge, walk across this ledge back left toward the arete passing the “Pilastro” route (and another line just left of it). Start in a shallow crack to the right of the rib. (If in doubt, look for the rock that seems smoother, more climbed, less loose and you will likely be on the / a established route).

Descent – Follow a path north wrapping around the East side of the mountain. You can see the trail and even the cars way below to your right. DON'T go there - there are a hundred false trails heading down into a morass of cliffs and dangerous terrain that are all off route. You must go UP a fair distance (sometimes there is snow depending on the season) and over a pass following the painted dots towards Rifugio Guissani, then down a steep scree gully to the path going to Rifugio Guissani and finally pick up the path that leads back down to the Rifugio Dibona and the car park.

Protection

Standard Dolomite rack would be more than enough as many pins and fixed gear exist on this route - 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.

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