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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Pitches 1-2 Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson 1996. Pitch 3 Mike Baker and Chris Ducker 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,448 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | S.Mckinna on Jan 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Rock Climbing Desert Rock 4 describes the crux to be in pitch 2 (5.9+ 90 ft). The 3rd pitch (5.9 60 ft), sporting lichen covered rock and a loose "death block", seemed to be the crux for me. The first Pitch (5.5 60 ft) belay had no hangers on the bolts. This could be girth hitched or you could bypass the belay and do pitch 1 and 2 in a long pitch. The death block on the third pitch is at the anchors, wear helmets. I would have released the block myself but had a dog at the bottom. If you go to do the 3rd pitch leave all your gear away from the base and knock the block off for future safe climbing!!
Location
The route is an obvious left facing corner at mile seven. Study your approach and expect 25-35 minutes to reach the climb.
Protection
I brought a set of aliens, double tcu's for pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 3 used some smaller stuff and a 3,4,and 5 camalot. Fixed pins and bolts for anchors...bring webbing. bring some runners to clip one bolt on pitch 2 and for girth hitch belay. Rap from P3 to P2 60 ft. and double rope rap from P2 to the ground 150 ft.
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