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Routes in Third Band

Hacky Sack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
How Can I Miss You if You Won't Go Away T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yegg T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2004
Page Views: 62 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jan 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is on the Top 40 Wall. To the right of If You Won't Leave Me ..., you'll find two cracks. This is the right of the two. Climb a flaring cracking reminiscent of Lumpy to a ledge. Jog right a bit and climb the obvious finger crack to a flake.

An interesting variation is to climb the hand- and fist-crack to the right of the finger crack on the upper portion of the route (bumps the grade up to 8+ or so; big fun on this one). Bring an extra #3 Camalot or equivalent for this variation.

Location

See the photo for the start. To descend, head climber's left to a large tree with slings. Make a single rappel (about 95 feet) back down to the base of the wall.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Build your own belay anchor at the top.

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