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Routes in Bullet Hole Cliff Band

5.7 TR TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bubblicious TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingers T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Froggy T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mustachio TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
OW V2 5+
Type: TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 715 total, 9/month
Shared By: Cragophilia on Jan 25, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Do not to on top of the cliff! Details

Description

Start in the small chimney ~15' to the right of Fingers. Use smears and small holds to shuffle up the chimney. After about fifteen feet, reach your leg out onto the face to your right and pull yourself to easier ground. This is a good practice route.

Location

This is located at the top cliff band of the Bullet Hole Rock area just to the right of Fingers.

Protection

Top rope off hangers and natural features above or highball.

Photos

Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
I guess you could call this an "incipient chimney". I.e. it'll be a chimney once the pillar that currently plugs it falls out. There's a crack system on either side of the plug. You can climb either crack independently at around 5.7/5.8. Sep 7, 2012
The fixed anchors on the cliffband are ridiculously sketchy. Rusted, spinning hangers, etc. Bring a good amount of webbing and back them up with available natural features.

Also, in case it's not clear from the description, this is in the cliffband above Bullet Hole Rock. Toprope access ~250' to the right.

For a fun variation, where this route shifts right toward easier ground you can stay left to climb the face. Can't be much harder, maybe 5.8.
Aug 19, 2011