PRINT: Rock Climb The Waltz, Southwest Utah

The Waltz

5.12d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 34 votes
FA: M. Tupper E. Tupper
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Turtle Wall

Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK Details

The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.

Description

Starts off with a tough boulder problem through the first 18 feet. After finishing the boulder problem the route eases up a bit but keeps you on your toes with 12a climbing for the next 40 feet.

Like most route at turtle wall this is an excellent route.

Location

Route is just right of the "project" it is the left/south most route (with chalk) on the main face before turning the corner towards The Actual Parchments.

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Boulder problem

Just about to hit the clipping jug where it eases up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Austin-Tucker12 Tucker
Orem, Utah

5.12d

This route is more of a hard v6 boulder problem for 15 or so feet followed by 5.11-ish climbing to the chains. The bottom has a powerful undercling crux with high awkward feet (if I'm remembering correctly) to small pockets and sloper crimps. Once you finish the boulder problem, it's like 5.11 climbing with some good rests and interesting, sometimes sandy holds. May 1, 2016

Lurk Er
Truckee, CA

Hard to tell exactly but the first two bolt hangers, which protect you through the crux, appear to be Kong-Bonatti aluminum hangers. These are somewhat notorious for breaking.

It's possible that they are steel, I didn't try the route or closely inspect the hangers. Regardless, just a heads up for anyone wanting to try this thing. Oct 31, 2021

Aidan Francis

5.12d

youtu.be/4Th4gNpEyzc Feb 23, 2022

Matthew Hinckley
American fork Utah

5.12d

Beta for this route that worked really well for me I’m around 6 foot and for my buddy who is around 5’6 this worked for both of us instagram.com/reel/CpIxHIGp… Feb 26, 2023