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King of the Hangdogs

5.12c, Trad, Sport,  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Dave Bingham, Pokey Amory
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Office
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Hardest move after the roof where the holds get small.

Location

Just to the left of Scar Tissue. Corner to roof.

Protection

Anchors just left and below scar tissue anchors. Easy to set up on TR after climbing S.T.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dan TRs Hangdogs.
[Hide Photo] Dan TRs Hangdogs.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Past User
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] So you toproped it and thought it should be downgraded? Jan 26, 2011
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Impressively classic 5.11b/c dihedral to a V7/8 boulder problem that is literally one move. Takes away from the route quite a bit. Not even fun to be honest, not sure if I'll ever try it again. 1 star tops. Jun 24, 2011
Past User
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] I second the stemming corner is great, and probably closer to 11+. The crux roof can be done many ways, with the easiest being a VERY sneaky beta intensive sequence that amounts to a rather enjoyable 6 move V5 (any other beta puts this into the V7/8 or 5.13 territory). Also, supplementary gear is needed above the crux in a couple of places, so bring small/med nuts and a red Metolius/.75 BD to get you to the chains. Also, although it is fun to refer it as such, the crux if done correctly is nowhere close to holding the the title for "hardest move in the city." However I must also say unlocking (and years later remembering!) the V5 version of the crux has proven impossible to me since that fortuitous creative day. The bolts are showing their age, and the could be much better located in many places. This is a great route to have redpointed. Jun 25, 2012
zach cook
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] replaced all Original bolts + anchor with 1/2" SS in 2021. Rebolted in cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. All hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Oct 12, 2021