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Routes in Shamu Area

Baby Signs V0 4
Balance or Power V6 7A
Bashista Yo Sista V5 6C
Capacitator V7 7A+
Choppy V6 7A
Decepticon V3 6A
Free Time V7 7A+
Heaven V8 7B
Help Meat V3+ 6A+
Josh in the Box V5 6C
Knuckles of Evil V7 7A+
Overlord V2 5+
Pet Goat V0 4
Shamoo V5 6C
Shamoo Dihedral V4 6B
Sneaker Crack V0- 4- R
Talking to Myself V1+ 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Joel Torretti
Page Views: 2,189 total, 26/month
Shared By: skinny legs and all on Jan 23, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Shamoo is one of the top ten boulder problems of Mt Gretna. It embodies all of what diabase climbing is about: small holds, balance and most importantly technique. Shamoo climbs the striking seam and left arete on the most prominent boulder in the area.

Begin easily enough by laybacking up the left arete whilst smearing. Work your way into a position where you will be spanning between the arete and crack with your hands and no feet.

Hike the left foot up to nearly nothing, perch for all you are worth and reach up high left to a tiny, nearly unusable sidepull. Stomp the right smear up, no up further. Then fire out right for the opening in the crack. Hug the features for another move, then topout easily.

Location

Large boulder with the striking seam Heaven (V8) and a blunt left arete. Cant miss it.

Protection

Two pads and a spotter

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
 
The grade on this problem is subjective. I have heard many V6's and even V7. But as the fa'ist told me if you know how to do it its V4. One can even release both hands in unison and stand in the crux position. This would be V4 in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Jan 23, 2011