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Routes in Sangalo Rocks

Kidogo Kidogo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
O.A.F. (One and Fun) T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ian McHenry (FFA Marshall Burke)
Page Views: 613 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ian McHenry on Jan 22, 2011
Admins: BigRed11

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Must walk through farmers' plots Details

Description

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. This boulder is split in two with another project crack in the narrows of the split. Crack starts with small finger crack, then moves diagonally up right as crack widens to fist and bigger than fist size and overhangs slightly. This section was clean aided pulling on #3 and #4 cams on FA. Crack straightens at nice, sling-able flake and continues up and widens for 15 ft (#4 and #5 cams). Then, turns into tiny squeeze chimney (approx 18 in wide) that has a tiny knob you can sling half way up, but would be better with a #4 or #5 Big Bro. Chimney is approximately 20 ft before topping out. Single bolt with rap ring. Also, a decent chock stone that can be slinged to rappel onto project route. Bolt is Fixe Hardware 3/8" x 3", but 1cm of threads still showing. Should be plenty solid but could be replaced if the route ever gets serious traffic. Route sent free by Marshall Burke at 5.10b

Location

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. Descent is a rappel from single bolt and rap ring or sling chockstone and rappel face.

Protection

Doubles from #2-#5. Some 0.4-1 cams for first 30 ft. Big bro #4 or #5 for squeeze chimney. Single bolt with ring at top for rap descent.

Photos

Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.10- A1 PG13
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.10- A1 PG13


Inside the hand-jamming section was biggest bat I've ever seen on a climb. After I asked nicely, the bat shuffled back a bit to make room for my hands (no hanging!).

Be warned; I forgot a wrench and lowered off loose bolts. Dec 22, 2013
Ian McHenry  
 
Marshall Burke was able to send the crux overhanging, diagonal fist crack free at 5.10b and I followed. Route felt even better free, though doubles are definitely needed for #2-#4, with only one #5 that you can walk up above the flake until the chimney. Jan 23, 2011