PRINT: Rock Climb Conquest of the Stud Monkey, Yosemite National Park

Conquest of the Stud Monkey

5.10a, Trad,

Avg: 2 from 9 votes
FA: Reid and Howard, 89
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 2. Loggerhead Buttress

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Description

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.

Location

Just right of Simian Sex. Look for a large block with a tree growing out of the top. This route climbs the right side of the block.

Protection

Pro to 3.5". Optional 4".

Two bolt ASCA anchor with rap rings.

70m rope gets you to the ground.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gargano
Arizona

Description:

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.

Location:

Just right of Simian Sex. Look for a large block with a tree growing out of the top. This route climbs the right side of the block.

Protection:

Pro to 3.5". Optional 4".

Two bolt ASCA anchor with rap rings.

70m rope gets you to the ground. Jan 21, 2015

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose

twice,- 7 years ago and now I confused this climb with Simian Sex. May 16, 2017

Ryan Hill
Denver, CO

Not the area warm-up. Moderate moves on fun rock until you hit the switch into the water-groove. Maybe it was a bad day for me, but the climbing through the water groove felt insecure and challenging. The small ledge is far enough below the next gear placement that a fall from there has disaster potential, 40'+ fall potential into a ledgy corner system. Took me a long time to get the head together enough to make that move. Once past that the final moves are easy.
For reference, I found Simian Sex @ 10D a good deal more secure and a better overall climb. Oct 8, 2018