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Ancient Sea Friends

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 17 votes
FA: Lead on gear by Ben Williams, Equipped by Kevin Capps
Missouri > CM: Providence > Main Area

Description

Climb the easy warm up slab, do some stretches on the ledge, and then wedge yourself in the dihedrel and get ready to hang on for the next 20 feet. The crux is very balancy and you will know it when you come to it!

Location

look for the giant dihedrel. just right of next time, send a card

Protection

6 bolts and 2 bolt anchor

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How do you want to finish?
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Where do you finish?
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here is a pic of me bolting it in the hot, hot, hot, humid summer.
[Hide Photo] here is a pic of me bolting it in the hot, hot, hot, humid summer.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Old school 5.9 "below" the main roof, the upper crux is for sure a 5.11. As a 1990's Trad line: Too Wiered For Words was a bold lead for sure. Listed in the 1998 climbing guide book as a TR, this route was not reccommended for future trad ascents because of the lack of protection. Feel free to give the route a try via pure trad style or try to head up the flake to the right then out right of the dihedral to the upper left-facing crack. Goodluck!

This gem, now a bolted sport line, was a trad line that surely needed the bolts. At the same time, the top of this route is no less dicy than Providence Crack's trad finish! Good job Kevin. I also like the new name. No one knew it as Nice Stems.


Dec 3, 2011
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Rebolted and cleaned for safe travel, this route gives the best of both worlds. 5.9 or less is below the roof with protected chain lowering anchors at each clip through middle dihedral. The main roof expose the upper intermediate division of climbing by forsing the body position into an arete. Take the under cling to the main good face hold via a small small leftfacing crack. Next, press intothe roof and rest. Goodluck resting. Clip and head right with a highstep. adjust the left hand and reach right to a bump hold. Adjust left foot and bump right hand to an axe edge, finish hold. Finish rock surface fell with cleaning, so finish out right. Camp next to the river below. Feb 17, 2013
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Drives me nuts to force an awkward move over a ledge, to gain a high bolt. That ruined the fun lower section and the cool first dihedral. Easily could have had a lower bolt there.
Then, gaining the final section (with undercling, sidecrimp, press-up) is awesome, but something essential seems to be missing for the top out. The last move to the anchors is way more than 11a now, in my humble-d opinion. Nov 27, 2017