Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Face

Don's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fellowship, The 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4 X
Humungous Woosey T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Luca and the Fishes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+ X
Moonscapes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Southeast Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jim Waugh and Damon Williams, mid 90's
Page Views: 1,137 total, 14/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking Details

Description

I climbed Moonscape with Steve Curtis last weekend and Kerry is wrong about some things. His description is enough to get you up the route but you'll be in for some real surprises.

This is a really spectacular and serious route. Incredible position on Babo's east face. The rock was pretty good; the pro, not so much. Anyone who fancies him/her self a rock-solid 5.11 climber is welcome to give the crux pitch a whirl and reevaluate! I was thankful it wasn't my lead and question whether I could lead it at all.

Steve led the crux pitch (and did a brilliant job); here's the beta-intensive description he wrote for another site (don't click on the link if that sort of thing offends you).

My thoughts on Steve's description: I wouldn't go so far as to call pitches one and five X-rated, but they are definitely serious leads. Conversely, I think the crux is possibly more serious than Steve implies. The wall is steep, but you're often left or right of your gear in addition to being well above it. Big swinging falls are possible.

From Kerry's description, we thought the route would basically be over after pitch 3. Boy were we wrong! Pitches 4-5 had steep, sustained 5.9/10 groove climbing with rounded and insecure holds as the main features.

Location

Shares the start of Don's Crack. Past the spring and just past the obvious Cougar Cave, look for a broken buttress with some bolts above.

Protection

Double set to #3 camalot, single #4 camalot (new or old). The first pitch requires only a light single set of gear. On the crux, Steve left the extra .75, 1, and 2 camalots and was fine. Pitch one has 5 or 6 bolts, and the crux pitch has 4. Anchors atop pitches 1-4 have either one or two bolts. All of the bolts have been replaced recently.

0 Comments