Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Jim Waugh and Damon Williams, mid 90's|
|Page Views:||1,164 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Jan 20, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking Details
Traffic from drug smuggling and illegal immigration is high in this area. Exercise caution. US Border Patrol recommends avoiding this area completely after dark.
DescriptionI climbed Moonscape with Steve Curtis last weekend and Kerry is wrong about some things. His description is enough to get you up the route but you'll be in for some real surprises.
This is a really spectacular and serious route. Incredible position on Babo's east face. The rock was pretty good; the pro, not so much. Anyone who fancies him/her self a rock-solid 5.11 climber is welcome to give the crux pitch a whirl and reevaluate! I was thankful it wasn't my lead and question whether I could lead it at all.
Steve led the crux pitch (and did a brilliant job); here's the beta-intensive description he wrote for another site (don't click on the link if that sort of thing offends you).
My thoughts on Steve's description: I wouldn't go so far as to call pitches one and five X-rated, but they are definitely serious leads. Conversely, I think the crux is possibly more serious than Steve implies. The wall is steep, but you're often left or right of your gear in addition to being well above it. Big swinging falls are possible.
From Kerry's description, we thought the route would basically be over after pitch 3. Boy were we wrong! Pitches 4-5 had steep, sustained 5.9/10 groove climbing with rounded and insecure holds as the main features.