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Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack)

5.8, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 73 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress

Description

Unique climb for NC;good hand jams up an obvious crack. Climb a short corner to a ledge, then take the splitter crack to the top of the partially detached pillar

Location

Take the Cereal Wall approach but walk left once you hit the wall. Take a faint trail around some boulders and up hill about 50 feet. You will see a series of cracks, some very wide. This route is the right-most crack.

Location: 35.449783, -82.213475

Protection

2-4"; double 3's are good
Rappel slings at the top- bring a cordelet to set a TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jason Shao practicing his toe jams as he nears the top of this magnificent line. Photo by Kai Beattie.
[Hide Photo] Jason Shao practicing his toe jams as he nears the top of this magnificent line. Photo by Kai Beattie.
climbing with a view
[Hide Photo] climbing with a view
Looking up to the path of glory!
[Hide Photo] Looking up to the path of glory!
Enjoying the view
[Hide Photo] Enjoying the view
Showing a possible alternate route to ledge of the 5.8 crack
[Hide Photo] Showing a possible alternate route to ledge of the 5.8 crack
not long but certainly fun. crux seems to be just getting established in crack.
[Hide Photo] not long but certainly fun. crux seems to be just getting established in crack.
It is the crack to the right of the larger chimney starting right on top of the boulders, belay from the top of the boulders.
[Hide Photo] It is the crack to the right of the larger chimney starting right on top of the boulders, belay from the top of the boulders.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

zFoy Foy
Asheville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Surprised this gets so few stars. It's short, but packs action the whole way with a great rest after some cupped-hands to fist action. Protects well with a couple of large (#3-4) cams. Feb 17, 2012
Michael Lucky
Charleston, SC
 
[Hide Comment] I really liked this climb, It has one or two offwidth sections in it and the start was a little difficult for me. Short but fun. Jan 21, 2013
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great crack climb would be four stars if it was taller Dec 7, 2013
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A splitter line that's for sure! If you're not use to crack climbing this will probably feel more difficult than 5.8. The crux is probably just getting established into the crack off the ledge. May 9, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
[Hide Comment] By time you get into the rhythm of this climb, it's over. Fun climb though. Bring a couple #3s and #2s, it's all of 40ft tall. Nov 24, 2014
Johnny Remein
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great climb, although too short! I'm a newbie at jamming, but this was a good one to lead and then take some laps on to get the feel for hand/fist jams. Recommended Mar 10, 2016
munkeybog Sachs
Landrum, SC
 
[Hide Comment] If you get lost, and find yourself at this climb, do it. But don't go seeking it out. Reminds me of the 20ft perfect hands (5.9) left and down hill of Invisible Airwaves. Nobody goes to LG Northface seeking it out.

On the other hand if you have a newb crew with you, lock this thing down with a TR rig and nobody will care. Mar 11, 2016
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Awesome crack. Clearly too short... But it's bigger than a bouldering problem! And it's a cool position on killer stone. Dec 12, 2017
Chris K
Clemson, SC
 
[Hide Comment] Crack seems to be widening. Could have used a 5, plus #4’s never would be hands for me. But as soon as you get going and feels good, it ends. Wish it was as long as shredded wheat

Left new tat on top Oct 23, 2018
Joey Chicharrones
CO & Oranjestad
 
[Hide Comment] Short, but sweet! Dec 18, 2018
Michael Murphy
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Love this route. Too short. Definitely more of a fist crack. There's probably two hand jams but the rest is easily fists. Last time I did it I used a #2, a #3, and a #4. A 5 would go in there too at the top if you're feeling gripped.

Tat was in decent condition as of 12/5/20. Probably could use an update soon. I didn't have any with me otherwise I'd have left something. Dec 10, 2020
T Lego
Asheville, NC
 
[Hide Comment] If you're new to this stuff, just give it your best effort to get established in the crack and then it all gets better! Tat was good as of a few months ago. Brought some webbing and a link up with me and didn't need to do anything with what was already there. Dec 9, 2021
Cooper Uliano
  5.8
[Hide Comment] No Tat present as of November 2023! Climb was excellent and airy after standing on the thin top of the detached pillar. If you don't want to leave slings or tat, do one or two chimney moves and get to the top of the larger pillar and climb around the other side to a set of bolts on the face, which is simple but a bit spooky. Rings are present and one can clean with some effort. Would definitely recommend this! Nov 22, 2023