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Petit Piton
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in White Dike Area
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1976 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mystery 13 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Petit Piton T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Dike, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 1,216 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Winne on Jan 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Access Issue: CLOSED - Private Property
Details
This property lies on private property owned by Sylvan Dale Ranch.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)
Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.
These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.
Description
This climbs two pitches up the largest, left-facing dihedral/chimney.
P1. Face climb up past a steel rod, continue thru a shallow, left-facing, right-slanting dihedral with dual cracks. Belay before big, loose ledge, 90 feet.
P2. Climb an obvious, large, left-facing dihedral/chimney past a few bushes to the top, 110 feet.
We found one small old piton towards the top of P2, hence Petit Piton.
Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.
P1. Face climb up past a steel rod, continue thru a shallow, left-facing, right-slanting dihedral with dual cracks. Belay before big, loose ledge, 90 feet.
P2. Climb an obvious, large, left-facing dihedral/chimney past a few bushes to the top, 110 feet.
We found one small old piton towards the top of P2, hence Petit Piton.
Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.
Location
20 yards east of The Green Giant, look for a steel rod 30 feet up.
Descent: scramble 10 yards north to a 4th class goat trail in a gully running east/west.
Descent: scramble 10 yards north to a 4th class goat trail in a gully running east/west.
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