PRINT: Rock Climb Air Apparent, Lyons

Air Apparent

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Mason Frischette, Scott Woodruff
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Infirmary Slabs > Upper Infirmary Slabs

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed. Details

Per Matt B: this entire area (including Upper Infirmary Slabs) is on private property. Check USFS maps, and you'll see a rectangular chunk of private property just off the road at the beginning of Coffin Top Gulch. This unfortunately includes the beginning of the Coffintop Trail as well. As it stands, the landowner does not want climbers on his property, so these crags should be avoided.

Description

This is a two-pitch route with two very different pitches. Pitch one climbs a steep hand-crack up to a ledge (with a bit of junky rock at the start to get to the good stuff) and then traverses the ledge to the left for about twenty feet (5.9). The second pitch goes up a thin flake to the top (5.7). You'll notice that the belay position below the second pitch is only about ten feet above the ground and a short section of 5.8 would get you to the same spot.

Location

This route is on a formation called the Footstool. It's up and right from most of the routes on Upper Infirmary. The thin crack of the second pitch can be seen from below and could serve as a useful navigation aid. We approached by climbing Mumakil and then scrambling left and down a little from there. The start of the route is to the left of a large, flat boulder.

Descend by downclimbing a third-class slab to the climber's right.

Protection

Standard rack. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would be useful for the first pitch. Stoppers and small cams are useful on the second.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First pitch of air apparent climbs the flakey pod to a few body lengths of sweet jams; followed by a belay ledge and a shorter second pitch up a slab.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew S.
Bighorn Basin

Checked this out yesterday on a nice day in the Vrain. First pitch is cool, bottom section is a little crappy and had some loose flakes in there, but was able to place gear off of them. The jams on the upper section are sweet. Definitely a couple extra #1s and #2s, unless you're solid at the grade, as I am not. Pitch 2 climbs a nice, thin crack up the slabby face on smaller gear. It is a fun short pitch as well. Feb 17, 2013

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

The thin flake on P2 protects well in blue/green Aliens or equiv. Take a few of each.

As well, the belay atop P1 is on 2-3" cams, so take a few of those BEYOND that needed to protect P1 or the belay is going to be a tough one. Not much alternative there.

I'd give it more stars were it longer. Jun 3, 2015