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The Calling (aka Night Vision)

WI4 M3-4 PG13, Mixed, Ice, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Silverton > Eureka

Description

This is the most prominent/ obvious flow on the Outward Bound Wall. The guidebook calls this route 4 pitches, but we broke it into 5 to minimize rope drag and maximize belayer comfort/protection from falling ice.

Pitch 1: M3-4, 40m. This pitch can either be good ice, easy mixed or pure rock. Climb up to pin anchor on the right of the flow.

Pitch 2: WI3 30m This pitch follows a left-leaning ramp build an anchor just below the pillar.

Pitch 3: WI4/4+, 30m. Climb up nice curtain to a short, steep pillar. Belay off pin anchor on the right.

Pitch 4: WI3, 60m. Climb a short steep section or traverse further right to avoid the steep stuff and continue up rock/ice grove to pin anchor on the left.

Pitch 5: WI3, 50m. Climb easy ice and snow to a belay stance on the left at the top of the ice.

Descent: Continue up snow to big tree on the left that has slings on it. Rap 1: Do a full 60m rap to a good snow ledge. Be careful to not rap off the ends on the rope. Rap 2: (either downclimb to the anchor atop pitch 4 10m below you or climb up to small tree and rig short rappel to pin anchor on left.) Rap 3: 50m rap down to the pin anchor atop pitch 3. Rap 4: 50m down the steep pillar to pin anchor top pitch 1 on the right of the flow. (might be covered in ice). Rap 5: 40m to the ground.

Location

Hike up the road into Eureka just like you were going to do the gullies. Just after you pass the Outward Bound hut on your right, start going uphill (left) through the trees to the base of the climb.

Protection

Two ropes, lots of stubby ice screws, a good selection of pins, nuts and a few small cams (green Alien to #0.75 Camalot).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lots of falling ice! Don't look up.
[Hide Photo] Lots of falling ice! Don't look up.
Eric on the pillar of pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Eric on the pillar of pitch 3.
Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1.
The Calling on left.
[Hide Photo] The Calling on left.
The Calling as seen on approach.
[Hide Photo] The Calling as seen on approach.
The Calling center gully as seen from the parking lot.
[Hide Photo] The Calling center gully as seen from the parking lot.
Photo topo.
[Hide Photo] Photo topo.
Eric on pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Eric on pitch 2.
On the approach. Lower half of the route in view.
[Hide Photo] On the approach. Lower half of the route in view.
Route photo.
[Hide Photo] Route photo.
Pitch 4.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

eggman
Durango, co
[Hide Comment] I've also heard this one called Night Vision...the main chimney/chockstone route to the climber's left is White Trash. Jan 19, 2011