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Routes in Piz da Lec (Boeseekofel)

Piz da Lec (Boeseekofel) – South-East Face, Dorigatti/Giambisi T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alberto Dorigatti, Almo Giambisi 1973
Page Views: 729 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Jan 14, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Description: This is a nice line to take a less experienced climber like your older child up because the approach and the descent are relatively safe and unexposed (unlike many routes in the area), though the climbing is not particularly easy. If you use the lifts to access and descend the mountain this is an easy day out. The climbing is interesting though not spectacular. The line is a short distance to the left of a popular Via Ferrata that others in the group might wish to climb. The descent is a very easy path down the standard Via Ferratta descent.

Pitch 1 – 30 m IV+: Climb the yellow and black cracked groove, then go right to a stance in big blocks
Pitch 2 – 25 m III+: Traverse right and climb a chimney to a stance below and overhang
Pitch 3 – 30 m V-: Follow the narrow black chimney to a stance
Pitch 4 – 30 m IV-: Continue in the chimney to a yellow overhang. Move left to belay in a niche
Pitch 5 – 35 m V: Go left on the yellow slab below he overhang, then move up and right diagonally to a thread belay
Pitch 6 - 35 m V+: Go up the grey slab then using delicate feet and small holds over a black overhang and continue to a stance near the edge.
Pitch 7 – 35 m V: Climb diagonally left around the arete to reach a yellow crack. Climb the crack and an overhang to a good stance.
Pitch 8 – 15 m III: A groove leads up to a stance on the summit lip.

Location

Location: Drive to Corvara and park at the gondola lift. Take the Boe lift to Crep de Mont, then the Vallon chair lift. From the top of the lift follow a path staying beneath the South Face until almost at the end where you can then follow a scree slope up to the right and then traverse onto the narrow ledge to the right to the base of a black corner.
Descent: Follow the well marked Via Ferrata path on the East Rib down to the ski lift.

Protection

Protection: Standard Dolomite rack – 1 set of camming units ½ inch to 3.5 inches, one set of wired stoppers, a selection of threads, many long slings and free carabiners to reduce rope drag.

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