Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1900 ft (576 m), 19 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Hans Steger, Paula Wiesenger, Fred Mase Dari, Siegfried Lechner 1929|
|Page Views:||2,222 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Wolfe on Jan 14, 2011|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
Pitch 1 50 m II: Climb easily up and right to a stance below a yellow vertical dihedral
Pitch 2 25 m IV+: Climb dihedral, move left and climb another dihedral
Pitch 3 22 m V+: Continue up the dihedral until forced left by and overhang
Pitch 4 25 m V+: Step left, then up then right back to the overhang crack and climb this past two more overhangs to a stance in a crack.
Pitch 5 20 m V: Climb directly up the crack over some more overhangs
Pitch 6 30 m IV+: Avoid the crack above by moving into the chimney to the right, climb it to a roof then step back left, up another crack to a stance.
Pitch 7 45 m III: Climb the chimney
Pitch 8 30 m IV: Follow a diagonal line right up a rib below yellow walls to a thread belay (Variation go straight up the parallel cracks and eventually reconnect with this line)
Pitch 9 35 m IV: Continue up cracks to a stance above and to the right of a good ledge
Pitch 10 50 m V-: Climb a crack above to a chimney, then a narrower chimney to a good stance.
Pitch 11 40 m IV: Follow the same line for a short distance then trend left to easier terrain. You can escape either direction on this ledge system in about 4 easy pitches.
Pitch 12 40 m III: Climb the chimney with the jammed block above (its right of a yellow wall).
Pitch 13 30 m IV: Climb a crack and some ledges
Pitch 14 35 m V-: Climb a dihedral to an overhang, over this to a stance
Pitch 15 25 m IV: Go diagonally to the right above an overhang and below a yellow overhanging wall
Pitch 16 50 m IV: Continue right along the ramp to a stance below a steep wall
Pitch 17 35 m V+: Climb the wall above it gets thin, wonderfully exposed and quite steep near the top
Pitch 18 40 m V: Climb the chimney past a chock stone to the ridge.
"Pitch 19" - Follow the ridge to the summit
Descent Descend the North ridge to a notch with a rappel station. Make a few short rappels into the gully. Descent the gully down to the right to Santner pass, then take the path down to Rifugio Alberto, then on to Refugio Vajolet and finally down to Gardeccia hut where you can catch the bus back down to Pera. This descent will take 1.5 hours. If you miss the bus you can walk down the tar road (another 1.5-2 hours) to your car.