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Routes in Three Pile Island

Collossus Of Rhoids T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold Your Fire T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Rhoid Warrior T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kurt Smith, January 1988
Page Views: 808 total · 9/month
Shared By: Will S on Jan 13, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is described in Vogel as possibly having broken holds, potentially being harder than rated because of that, and not having seen a repeat. Throw those concerns out the window, it was redpointed for a probable 3rd ascent on 01/12/11, and there are no obvious broken holds...none that affect the difficulty anyway.

Start in the large undercling (tough getting started if you're 5'9" or under), clip the first bolt, rail out left in the undercling, and launch into the 3 move crux. Clipping the second bolt is sketchy, it's in a poor location for the moves (bolted on lead from hooks, I'd guess) and if you blow it while pulling rope to clip you'll probably hit the ground. There is a decent hold to clip from once you've finished the last move of the crux, but it's still awkward.

Have a very alert belayer, because even coming off the crux moves is pretty close to groundfall, nothing to worry about if your belayer does their job but heads up anyway. Once the second bolt is clipped the routes eases way off.

Beware of the first big knob feature at the start of the crack, it could probably be kicked off, but is a somewhat crucial handhold, so please don't stand on it.

This is one of the easier routes of the grade in Josh, and not sustained, basically a V7-ish boulder problem with much easier climbing below and above. Fun climbing, good rock, and deserving of a couple of stars.

Location

To the right of Collossus Of Rhoids, is a steep dark brown patina face with a small roof and a vertical crack on the right side about halfway up. The route starts in the middle of the face (bolts are obvious here) goes more or less straight up to the roof, traverses right and finishes in the crack. Descend by scrambling down blocks and chimneys to climbers' right.

Protection

Two bolts, a fixed LA, a .5 camalot (for the horizontal right of the pin which will protect the next bit and act as a backup to the ancient pin), and a green alien. You may want an additional fingers/tips or smaller piece or a stopper for the upper crack. A couple #2 camalots and a #1 suffice for an anchor in a horizontal 6' back from the lip.

Photos

RTM
RTM  
Cool! I have had friends (5.blabla climbers) attempt it without success. They went along with the "broken holds" excuse. Good to see people repeating this stuff.

p.s. What ever happened to Diamond Dave Lee? Jan 14, 2011
C Miller   CA  
Bolted ground-up on lead with hooks by Kurt Smith and repeated months later that same season by a visiting Ron Kauk.

"Kurt Smith got the season rolling by leading a couple of former topropes: Bikin Whale (5.12b) (now with 3 bolts) and Chicks For Free (5.12b/c). Smith's finest creations were Duncecap (5.13b), a steep edging climb on Cap Rock, and Hold Your Fire (5.13a), requiring a very awkward mantle over a bulge."

"Ron Kauk made a brief visit, guiding David Lee Roth who cruised the Monument in a sleek, black 450SL with a huge skull and crossbones embossed on the hood. Kauk made the second ascent of Hold Your Fire in an impressive one-day effort, confirming the 5.13 rating." (Climbing #108, June 1988) Jan 13, 2011