Hold Your Fire
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Kurt Smith, January 1988|
|Page Views:||808 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Will S on Jan 13, 2011|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route is described in Vogel as possibly having broken holds, potentially being harder than rated because of that, and not having seen a repeat. Throw those concerns out the window, it was redpointed for a probable 3rd ascent on 01/12/11, and there are no obvious broken holds...none that affect the difficulty anyway.
Start in the large undercling (tough getting started if you're 5'9" or under), clip the first bolt, rail out left in the undercling, and launch into the 3 move crux. Clipping the second bolt is sketchy, it's in a poor location for the moves (bolted on lead from hooks, I'd guess) and if you blow it while pulling rope to clip you'll probably hit the ground. There is a decent hold to clip from once you've finished the last move of the crux, but it's still awkward.
Have a very alert belayer, because even coming off the crux moves is pretty close to groundfall, nothing to worry about if your belayer does their job but heads up anyway. Once the second bolt is clipped the routes eases way off.
Beware of the first big knob feature at the start of the crack, it could probably be kicked off, but is a somewhat crucial handhold, so please don't stand on it.
This is one of the easier routes of the grade in Josh, and not sustained, basically a V7-ish boulder problem with much easier climbing below and above. Fun climbing, good rock, and deserving of a couple of stars.