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Routes in Dabajianshan

South face route (and alternatives) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South west face route (and alternatives) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Traditional Route (the South East Ridge) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
West face route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Kewei Gao, Yeming Mei, on Oct 25, 1981
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: Anmin Deng on Jan 13, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Limited by National Park regulations Details

Description

The first FA report other than traditional route after WWII. The FA team Kewei Gao and Yeming Mei of "Himalaya climbing club" climbed in 7 pitches. Repeated reports can be found by climbing teams of National Taiwan University (NTU) Mountaineering Club.

The FA report in Chinese (originally published in "Outdoors" magazine issue 154, in Dec 1981) can be found at
sketchtaiwan-uenxic.blogspo…

. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 4, not climbing right but climbing straight up. Squeeze the overhanging big crack on the top section. FA: Weichong Wang, Mingchong Tsao of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 24, 2003.

. Alternative (YDS5.8): at pitch 3 (starting from the very same level of the big ledge at the top of pitch 1 of south face routes), climbing up a few meters and traverse and crawl to the right for about a dozen meters and climbing up. FA: Mingyu Lai, Guowei Ye of NTU mountaineering club, on Aug 25, 2003.

. NOTE: after years of massive earth quakes and typhoons, it is now (observed in 2009) not easy any more to walk on the huge ledge at the top of pitch 2 (ie, the top of pitch 1 of south face route) from the left of south west face to the south east ridge to choose your route. Parties should choose their route on either south or south west face before starting pitch 1 now.

Location

. on the trail facing the south face, to find the left most route on the wall.

. summit and down climbing the traditional route (rappelling the crux on bolt or natural pro).

Protection

. Pitons, nuts, cams, small to fist size
. no bolt or anchor

Photos

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