To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Tail Tucker
5.11a,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> Eagle Peak
> Left Wall
Access Issue: Nesting falcons reported, 2012 through 2015
Details
AJ Tay: A buddy and I got dive bombed in the same spot (2nd pitch belay station for
Rock Jungle). It looks like this might be a permanent home for these guys. I'm going to give them space and I hope others do the same. It appeared that two of the birds were possibly juveniles.
Description
P1 (5.10a): Climb past bolts up the slabby face about 30' left of "Cruise Line" and Lunch Rock. Finish at a rap anchor below the start of the dihedral.
P2 (5.10b/c): Climb right from the belay to bolts (what I did... or maybe unprotected straight up?) clipping two of them before veering left into the start of the dihedral as is angles left, then back right to a crux bulge near the finish. Belay at the higher of two anchors. 2 bolts & pro to 2.5"
P3 (5.11a): Climb the steep dihedral straight off the belay. Continuously cruxy and strenuous liebacking, stemming, and gastons get you through the pitch, easing up well after you expect it to. From there either trend right to an anchor top out via the last pitch of "Baby Face" or trend up and left to the last pitch of "Shining Slab", clipping a bolt or two along the way.
Location
This route climbs the right-hand of two major right-facing dihedrals on the left side of Eagle Peak's Main Wall. The first pitch starts directly below it, just past Lunch Rock where the trail begins to drop steeply along the base of the crag.
Descent: Walk off to the right or rap (bring rap hardware for anchors that may not have fixed hardware!)
Protection
Single rack with nuts and thin cams up to #2 camalot.
San Diego, CA
La Jolla, Ca
It would probably take 20 minutes on rappel to clean it again, if somebody would step up to help maintain the crag for the benefit of all. Btw - the best tool for the job is a retired pruning saw with a curved, flexible blade
Clean, it is easy 5.11, and the route is a nice change from the clip ups. May 11, 2021