Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960
Page Views: 1,232 total · 13/month
Shared By: rhyang on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.

Location

Hike from the Condor Gulch trailhead (across from the east side ranger station) and gain lots of elevation. Turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail after 1.7 miles. About a quarter mile after that you will see Dragonfly Dome on the right just off the trail. There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back.

Protection

Two quickdraws; brown/blue tricams for pockets; small to medium cams / nuts for initial pillar / crack if desired.

Bolted anchor up top with rings. Can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here.

Photos

beachplus4
So San Francisco
beachplus4   So San Francisco
You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors. Jan 16, 2011
ElGreco
  5.7 R
ElGreco  
  5.7 R
Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.

The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.

The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top. Mar 29, 2012