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Routes in High Peaks

Abuela Cochinita S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Andy's Sunset Punctuation Pinnacle S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Anvil, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Babies On the Ceiling S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Burgundy Dome S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Burtons Below S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carousel TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Clean Sweep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Condiment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condor Crag South - Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cone Regular Route, The S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Egg Shell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Erectile Dysfunction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feather Canyon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Freedom Dome, Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
H&L Dome - Regular Route S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hand Me Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Little Javelina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long's Folly: Regular Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Fortune S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lump, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operation Pinnacles Freedom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Photographer's Delight S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Piglet Pinnacle Southeast Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scandal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tuff Dome Regular Route T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmentionable, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
What I've Been Missing Out On T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
sponge left side S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
swept away S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960
Page Views: 1,172 total · 13/month
Shared By: rhyang on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start on a pillar with a thin crack and climb the south face along a seam which goes up and left, passing two bolts and a couple of pockets / holes.

Location

Hike from the Condor Gulch trailhead (across from the east side ranger station) and gain lots of elevation. Turn left at the junction with the Chalone Creek trail after 1.7 miles. About a quarter mile after that you will see Dragonfly Dome on the right just off the trail. There may be a bit of brush, hopefully trimmed back.

Protection

Two quickdraws; brown/blue tricams for pockets; small to medium cams / nuts for initial pillar / crack if desired.

Bolted anchor up top with rings. Can also toprope School Daze (5.9) from here.

Photos

beachplus4
So San Francisco
beachplus4   So San Francisco
You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors. Jan 16, 2011
ElGreco
  5.7 R
ElGreco  
  5.7 R
Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.

The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.

The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top. Mar 29, 2012

More About Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route

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