PRINT: Rock Climb Bush Doctor, San Diego County

Bush Doctor

5.11+, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 16 votes
FA: Kevin Worrall
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Eagle Peak > Tan Man Tower

Description

The classic on the formation. In the center of the large corner on Tan Man Tower is the start to this excellent route that ascends the corner, out onto the right wall and up to the top of the tower. This route is height dependent and shorter climbers may find it more difficult at the crux. I'm 5'8" with a +1 and I feel the route may be 11d/12a.

Start in the center of the large corner, follows a few bolts to the first crux, a traverse right that gets you established on the right arete of the wall that forms the right side of the corner. From here solve the slab, enter a small corner feature and exit this to the base of the summit block formation. This is the start of the crux. 3 bolts on the summit block to the top out.

The summit block from a distance has the appearance of the face of a man, thus the crags name.

Location

Directly in the center of the large corner in the center of the Tan Man Tower formation. This route starts up the corner and branches to the right. There is another line that stays in the corner all the way to the top.

Protection

Bolts. 14 or so to bolt anchors over the lip.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Close up of top crux of Bush Doctor...the reachy part. Photo credit Kevin Worrall

Final moves to the chains

Ryan King tops out Bush Doctor on his redpoint send. Made it look easy!<br>
Photo: Andrew Adkins

Ryan King tops out Bush Doctor on his redpoint send. Made it look easy! Photo: Andrew Adkins

Corner before the top crux. Photo credit Kevin Worrall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Stone
Joshua Tree

what a pleasure. i mean it, this thing is awesome. i probably shouldn't have rated it because i only top roped it and i fell probably 60 times, but it's just a real gem so i gave it 4 stars. the moves are so fun that i was laughing most of the time i was trying to climb this monster. the top sucks though. it should be removed. despite that, great work everyone Mar 24, 2012

Quan

An enjoyable climb with a couple heady moves leading up to the crux. I don't want to spoil it, but you're in for some fun right after the traverse.

I did the climb right after the sun set, so I was climbing by headlamp from the crux on. After falling multiple times at the crux and finally pulling it, I ended up going just a little out to the left, gastoned to a pillow-sized flake and peeled said flake off the rock within 6 feet of my belayer. In the dark. My friend and I had to take about 5 minutes to collect ourselves after that. I finished the route next go and discovered the flake was definitely not a part of the climb, so the climb is still intact. Luckily, so was my friend :) Oct 20, 2015

Bryce U
California

5.11c

Great route. Nice varied climbing. The traverse was fun, the slab was interesting, the headwall got pumpy.

At 5'10" I could just barely do the headwall starting moves statically. Dec 9, 2022