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Routes in Tan Man Tower

Bush Doctor S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East TMT S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Homeboy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tan Man Corner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tan Man Left Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Worrall
Page Views: 1,342 total, 16/month
Shared By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The classic on the formation. In the center of the large corner on Tan Man Tower is the start to this excellent route that ascends the corner, out onto the right wall and up to the top of the tower. This route is height dependent and shorter climbers may find it more difficult at the crux. I'm 5'8" with a +1 and I feel the route may be 11d/12a.

Start in the center of the large corner, follows a few bolts to the first crux, a traverse right that gets you established on the right arete of the wall that forms the right side of the corner. From here solve the slab, enter a small corner feature and exit this to the base of the summit block formation. This is the start of the crux. 3 bolts on the summit block to the top out.

The summit block from a distance has the appearance of the face of a man, thus the crags name.

Location

Directly in the center of the large corner in the center of the Tan Man Tower formation. This route starts up the corner and branches to the right. There is another line that stays in the corner all the way to the top.

Protection

Bolts. 14 or so to bolt anchors over the lip.

Photos

Quan
 
Quan  
 
An enjoyable climb with a couple heady moves leading up to the crux. I don't want to spoil it, but you're in for some fun right after the traverse.

I did the climb right after the sun set, so I was climbing by headlamp from the crux on. After falling multiple times at the crux and finally pulling it, I ended up going just a little out to the left, gastoned to a pillow-sized flake and peeled said flake off the rock within 6 feet of my belayer. In the dark. My friend and I had to take about 5 minutes to collect ourselves after that. I finished the route next go and discovered the flake was definitely not a part of the climb, so the climb is still intact. Luckily, so was my friend :) Oct 20, 2015
thunderhead
Oceanside, CA
 
thunderhead   Oceanside, CA
 
what a pleasure. i mean it, this thing is awesome. i probably shouldn't have rated it because i only top roped it and i fell probably 60 times, but it's just a real gem so i gave it 4 stars. the moves are so fun that i was laughing most of the time i was trying to climb this monster. the top sucks though. it should be removed. despite that, great work everyone Mar 24, 2012