Traditional Route (the South East Ridge)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A1
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m) |
FA: | possibly prehistorical, modern FA report Kisaburo Seko on Aug 4, 1927 |
Page Views: | 630 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Anmin Deng on Jan 7, 2011 |
Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Limited by National Park regulations
Details
People who enter Shue-Pa (short for Snow Mtn and Mt Dabajian) National Park reservation areas need to apply for Shue-Pa National Park entrance permission. The permission is granted only for limited number of persons daily.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by law. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.
Sadly, since 2010, to summit Mt Dabajian is forbidden by law. However, climbers tended to ignore the regulations and climb in low profile.
Description
While it is possible people could have climbed the summit in prehistorical times, the modern FA report of Mt Dabajian was by Kisaburo Seko (an instructor of Taipei 1st high school, where I was a student of Taipei 1st high school in 1980's) as a soloist leading climber of a climbing team of Taiwan Alpine Club via south east ridge (the traditional route) on Aug 4, 1927.
Top and bottom sections of the route are generally unroped class 4 to easy 5 climbing. The only crux pitch is in the middle there is a 3-4 meter high overhanging rock face.
Top and bottom sections of the route are generally unroped class 4 to easy 5 climbing. The only crux pitch is in the middle there is a 3-4 meter high overhanging rock face.
Location
. From Zhongba hut, hiking along the trail south to the north wind gap with steel bars for strong wind protection. Continue the trail about 100 meters south along the base of the west wall then turn left (east) and up hill along the base of south wall. Meet a road sign and turn left in very thick bamboos. Continue the trail up hill to the east end of south wall. It is the south east ridge. Very likely you will see some fixed ropes or aiding devices on the route.
. get down: down climbing the route. at the crux, climbers may want to use the bolt or natural pros on-site for rappel.
. get down: down climbing the route. at the crux, climbers may want to use the bolt or natural pros on-site for rappel.
Protection
. Sometimes tourists brought a ladder (or making a ladder DIY of the trees on-site) to climb this crux section and left on the wall.
. Sometimes there would be some fixed ropes at the crux.
. However, national park rangers would remove the fixed ropes and ladders regularly.
. 1 bolt above the crux for rappel.
. with small trad gears or pitons or directly tying webbing onto natural rock features, free (5.10+) or aid (A1) climb the crux.
. (as the modern FA report) standing on other's shoulders.
. Sometimes there would be some fixed ropes at the crux.
. However, national park rangers would remove the fixed ropes and ladders regularly.
. 1 bolt above the crux for rappel.
. with small trad gears or pitons or directly tying webbing onto natural rock features, free (5.10+) or aid (A1) climb the crux.
. (as the modern FA report) standing on other's shoulders.
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